The first article in this series discussed Elsa Peretti’s Round collection, which consists of pendants and earrings in various precious metals, organic materials and gemstones in the form of a circle. This followup article is an overview on Elsa Peretti herself, as a jewelry designer, and her design philosophy.
Like Robert Lee Morris, Peretti has a production-line approach to her jewelry design and has worked in conjunction with clothing designers such as Donna Karan and Halston. Her first mass-produced jewelry line was sold at Bloomingdale’s starting in 1972 in their Cul-de-Sac boutique.
Breakfast (and Other Meals) at Tiffany's
Since 1974, Peretti has been a featured designer for Tiffany & Co. She keeps her materials mostly in the realm of precious metals rather than plated metal, like Morris. Her designs are in a minimalist mode. When she joined the company, she told People magazine in an interview, “I design for the working girl … My objective is to design according to one's financial possibilities." At the time, her least costly design for Tiffany & Co. cost $33.
Compared to the mass-produced costume jewelry available at department stores during the same time period, this was perhaps twice as expensive. However, the $15 difference was made more than worthwhile by the chichi blue Tiffany bag in which all Tiffany jewelry is placed at sale.
Selling Jewelry By The Yard
Peretti uses nature as inspiration for her jewelry designs, a theme that is clearly shown in her work with charms. But her most recognizable jewelry design is the open puffed heart shown on this page. This asymmetrically hung charm is fashioned in both sterling silver and karated gold.
Two of her other famous designs are Diamonds by the Yard and Pearls by the Yard. Precious metal linked chains are spaced with either small round diamonds set in bezels or pearls that are wire wrapped. Interestingly, the smallest version of her Diamonds by the Yard was priced at $89 at her Tiffany debut in 1974.
Today, her 18K gold necklace is priced at $425; platinum at $575. Factoring in inflation and the rising cost of the raw materials, that is not an unreasonable increase.
Recognition From Peers and Celebs Alike
Peretti was awarded the American Fashion Critics Coty award in 1971. She has received the President's Fellow award from the prestigious Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), as well as the CFDA Accessory Designer of the Year award for 1996.
While still a favorite of the "working girl", she is worn contemporaneously by celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Aniston and Jodie Foster.
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